Casting Off on the Passap

passap cast off

I often see knitters (online) asking how to cast off on the Passap when knitting double bed. I use a very easy cast off that leaves a nice edge. Read on for details….and see my video at the end of this post.

Simple Passap Cast Off:

For the cast off, I use the same yarn color as the cast on. After the last row of the stitch pattern, I start the cast off by knitting one row N/N right to left in one whole lock tension number looser/higher than main tension. (Example if you are at lock tension 4, you would go up to lock tension 5). I then transfer all back bed stitches to the front bed with the U100E (see my U100E blog post for details)..

Next, I break the yarn and move the locks back to the right using GX/GX without strippers and without yarn. (This is a “free pass” and no knitting). Put the main yarn color back in the eyelet and knit one row right to left N/N another whole tension number higher (if you were at lock tension 5, you would go to 6). This puts loops (not really stitches) on the back bed as seen in the photo at the top of this post.

Drop the front knitting bed down and cast off on along the front bed (ignoring the back bed loops). Start the cast off on the right and continue to the left. This is a latch tool cast off (loop through loop) on the front bed (see photos below). This cast off has great stretch which is very nice for tuck patterns like T186.

After you have latched off across the front bed, push up all the back needles and drop the loops off the back bed. Next, push up the front bed needles and drop all the stitches off. That is it. All done. 🙂

The lock tension on the cast off rows may be different depending on which technique you are knitting. I always go a whole number looser lock tension for technique 186 and tuck patterns. For other double bed techniques, it may be fine to just go 2 clicks looser or maybe 3. You may want to swatch this and see what works best for you.

cast off
casting off

For visual learners, I have made a short video below showing the Passap cast off.

Casting off on the Passap knitting machine

Passap U100E Transfer Lock

Passap u100e
Passap U100E

The Passap U100E transfer lock is an amazing tool which, once mastered, will save you tons of time. You can transfer stitches in one pass. In order to successfully use the transfer lock, you must set everything up correctly. The last row of knitting (after your final pattern row) must be 2 to 4 clicks looser than your main tension. This final loose row will be knit from right to left. The locks will then be resting on the left of the bed. Turn the racking handle counter clockwise towards 9 o’clock. Push a needle up on the back bed. Only push it up a bit, but not enough for the stitch to go behind the latch. Now push a needle (the one to the right of the back bed needle) up on the front bed. Turn the racking handle watching to see the needle heads are close but not touching. There should be a hair of space between the needle heads. Put both needles back down into working position.

I usually have my racking position between 8 and 9 o’clock. You will keep the racking handle in this position and do the transfer by pushing the transfer lock across all needles in work. I always weight the knitting before transferring stitches. For full bed knitting I use 3 Passap weights and use either a cast on comb (reinsert into knitted fabric) or hang a comb from the LK150 machine (and add 3 weights).

Here are a few notes I have on using the transfer lock: Position 1 uses pushers, transferring stitches with pushers in work to empty needles on opposite bed. Position 2 transfers without pushers, every alternate stitch to the opposite bed (stockinette to 1:1 rib). Position 3 (garter stitch) transfers all stitches from one bed to the other whether or not there are needles with stitches already on needles. Position 4 transfers from double bed to single bed knitting. It transfers all stitches. Pushers are not necessary but will work with pushers. Postition 5 transfers a stitch from one bed to the other only where there is a pusher in working position and where there are already stitches on the needles opposite. Some stitches may remain on the front bed because it’s corresponding pusher is in rest position for that transfer. (example: Pat 1157, T286-follow console directions).

If the left side end needle was on the back bed, I push up an empty front bed needle (on the left) for that stitch to transfer to.

Here is a link to download the manual for the Passap U100E transfer lock.

New Pattern Shop and Webshop Changes

photo of payhip shop

I have moved my machine knitting patterns to a new shop. Etsy does not support Designaknit files and Square Online (my current test shop) does not even email files. I have been manually emailing Etsy sale .stp files and all files for Square Online after each sale. It has just been a bit much to keep track of between the two shops.

Since the convenience of digital patterns is to have them emailed immediately upon checkout, I needed to find a different place to sell them. I just recently found Payhip. Payhip is simple and easy. Many knitters and sewing pattern designers use Payhip for their digital pattern sales. On Payhip, you check out with Paypal (or debit/credit card via Paypal) and the best part is: you have ALL of your files (.stp, .bmp, .pdf) immediately upon checking out. Please let me know if you have any questions.

Link to Payhip Pattern shop HERE

Be sure to follow my shop and hashtag your finished knits with #hermanhillsfarm Thank you! I have lots more patterns to add to the shop and hope to get them listed soon. 🙂

With recent changes for VAT compliance in 2021 (and recent tariff codes), Etsy/Ebay will be the best choice for international customers as they calculate and submit VAT fees for the seller. I have my Square Online shop for US customers/shipping only. Thank you

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